Let’s lay down an important theme from the start: the huge amount of rivalry when it comes to claims of sandwich invention. The origin of falafel is one of the most hotly disputed of them all, although it is thought they were invented by the Christian Copts of Egypt, who were not permitted to consume meat during certain holidays. Falafels filled the gap. They swiftly gained popularity in the Middle East, and were particularly adopted by Israel as a symbol of national identity. Don’t be tempted to use canned beans for this, they’re too mushy. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
FOR THE FALAFEL:
2½ cups (500g) dried garbanzo beans (chickpeas)
31/3 cups (500g) dried split fava beans (broad beans)
6 scallions (spring onions), chopped
2 tsp sea salt
1 tsp black pepper
2 tsp ground turmeric
4 tbsp finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
4 garlic cloves, peeled
3 tbsp all-purpose (plain) flour
2 tsp baking powder
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
FOR THE TAHINI SAUCE:
1 heaped tbsp tahini, or to taste
1 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste
3 tbsp plain yogurt, or to taste
Pita breads, shredded cabbage, pickled chilies, and pickled turnips, to serve
To make the falafel, place the garbanzo beans (chickpeas) and fava beans (broad beans)
in a large bowl and cover with about three times their volume of cold water (they will swell
enormously overnight). The next day, drain them and place in the bowl of a food
processor along with all the other ingredients (except the vegetable oil for deep-frying).
Blend until well mixed, but the beans still retain some texture.
Pour some vegetable oil into a deep frying pan or an electric deep-fat fryer and heat to
350°F (180°C). In the absence of a special falafel shaper (no, I don’t have one either), it’s
best to shape them by hand. Take a small handful of the falafel mixture and squeeze it in
your fist until it holds together. Repeat until you have used up all the mixture (to make
about 40 falafel). Carefully drop the balls into the hot oil and cook in batches for a couple
of minutes, until golden brown all over. Drain on paper towels. Keep warm in a low oven
while you cook the rest. Serve hot.
To make the tahini sauce, mix together all the ingredients, plus some salt and pepper,
taste, and then add more tahini, lemon juice, or yogurt as necessary.
To assemble each sandwich, lightly toast a pita bread and cut it in half lengthwise,
leaving 2 canoe-shaped pockets. Stuff each with a little shredded cabbage, some falafel,
a drizzle of tahini sauce, a pickled chili, and some pickled turnip. Enjoy while fresh and
hot!
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